The Google Analytics module for Drupal does exactly what you would expect... it lets you add the Analytics code to your site without having to get dirty in any code!

In addition to standard Google Analytics tracking this module lets you track users by profile fields & file downloads which can be really powerful.

The steps to get Google Analytics working are simple:

My proof of concept pages finally got indexed by google but they only show the xml results in the description, not the rendered HTML (from the XSLT).
It turns out google may report it's self as a mozilla browser but they don't apply XSLT translations, they just present the XML in it's data form.
So the moral of the story is always render the html server side if you think the viewer is a bot (if you use code igniter use their user agent library with is_robot())